I clamp 3 blocks to the outside of the shell and make sure the shell is exactly at a right angle with the table surface. I'm using the router table to true the edges. Unless your router or table are out of whack. It will leave a small step at first, but after a few trips all the way around, it will level off automatically. Wouldn't it be easiest to square one end while it's still on the lathe, and then use the squared edge against the table saw fence to cut it to length? At that point it should be close enough to do a full-to-the-outside inner cut and then counter-cut back in. You should be able to get the strong stuff at a place were they do flooring and stuff like that. Glued some strong bandsanders "paper" to it. I (ab)use my powerdrill in a horizontal stand with a large disc. I do it kind of like Steve, except for the lathe. I still use the sandpaper on the table method for post bearing edge touch up if needed. Now truing any shell (including rosewood) is much faster.
I found 35 grit 16" floor sanding discs at Home Depot (in the tool rental dept.) I made a wooden 16" faceplate for my lathe, used spray adhesive to attach the disc, and let 'er rip. That stuff took so long (even with 40 grit sandpaper) that I had to find a better way. I did the sandpaper on the table route for a few shells. If it takes too long, maybe you are not using rough enough sandpaper on the granite. It works, but takes a very long time and is quite labor intensive. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is the easiest way to true the edges before routing the bearing edge? Up to this point I've been using a piece of granite and doing it by hand. I've been building stave drums for about a year and a half now and I'm always trying to make the process more efficient. This link has changed the opinions of many including some who commented here. If you don't do anything else, you'll want to check out the link at the bottom () which shows how extreme the movement of the head is. Below you'll find a healthy discussion from all points of view about bearing edges.
This process is known as "truing" the edge. Often times the edges are uneven and have to be made smooth first and then made perpendicular to the walls. In other words - the edge of the shell should be at a 90 degree angle to the walls of the shell. Where is the peak in relation to the overall thickness of the shell?Īnd of course, you'll want to "true" the edges before you cut your bearing edge. What angle is it (both inside and outside the peak)? The three main considerations for a bearing edge are: The more wood that contacts the drum head, the less overtone ring you'll hear and the more the sound of the shell will be a factor (the drum head itself is another major part of the sound.) Bearing edges are one of the most important factors in determining the tone of a drum.
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